Western Slopes to the Pacific Coast - Adventure Guide to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands - page 262

334, www.ecociencia.com. Ecocienca works in conjunction with a lo-
cal organization, SUBIR , which now makes the arrangements for
trips in and around these communities and in the Cotacachi-Cayapas
Reserve. SUBIR is based in Borbón, up the hill at the end of the main
street, or in Quito ay Apartado 17-21-190, 2-2528-696, fax 2-2565-

990, [e-mail].

Inquire with Angermeyer's Enchanted Expeditions , at Foch 726
and Av. Amazonas in Quito,

2-2569-960/2-2221-305, fax 2-2569-
956, [e-mail], www.enchantedexpeditions.
com. This responsible tour operator recently offered trips to Playa de
Oro and San Miguel.

San Miguel
San Miguel, on the Río Cayapas, is the site of another wonderful
community-based ecocultural tourism project and of the ranger fee
station for entry into Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve.
Ecocienca, the Ecuadorian Foundation for Ecological Studies, is
working in conjunction with San Miguel and the community of Playa
de Oro along the Río Santiago (see above) to combine tourism and
other economic alternatives with scientific research and conserva-
tion.

Located just before the northwest boundary of the Cotacachi-
Cayapas Reserve, San Miguel is a community of blacks living adja-
cent to indigenous Chachi families along the shoreline of the Río
Cayapas. Many of the Chachi here speak only their native language
of Cha'palaachi, and even fluent Spanish speakers will find it difficult
to understand the stuttered and fragmented speech of these Afro-
Ecuadorians. Fortunately, body language, smiles, and other facial ex-
pressions are universally understood.

A several-day organized tour that blends a mix of canoeing, hiking
through primary forest, and spending time with both cultures can be
arranged through Ecociencia. Music, dancing, and special celebra-
tions top off the trip and reallymake you feel like a part of the commu-
nity. The tourism facilities are well developed and comfortable, yet
they're also quite rustic. Beds includemosquito netting, while private
baths with flush toilets and rainwater showers are surprisingly
clean. You can enjoy downtime after each day's activities, relaxing on
porches or in the common rooms.

The community of San Miguel is a few hours from Borbón via motor-
ized canoe on the Río Cayapas. Water taxis take a couple of hours lon-
ger, but are less expensive. Contact Ecociencia , Isla San Cristóbal