Western Slopes to the Pacific Coast - Adventure Guide to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands - page 260

logical habitat in Ecuador, along the western slopes of the Andes.
Thanks to its extremely varied topography, the 504,917-acre reserve
spans numerous ecological life zones and harbors many species
unique to the region. From tropical lowland rainforest to premontane
and montane cloud forest, the prolific birdlife is ideal for the avid
birder. Hiking in the region offers an exceptional array of flora and
fauna for the nature enthusiast. Just as intriguing, however, is the
opportunity to experience local cultures that are unique to this re-
gion.
Entrance into the lower elevations of Cotacachi-Cayapas proper is
best via Playa de Oro along Río Santiago or from the community of
San Miguel and the Río Cayapas. Officially, the park entrance fee is
$20, payable at the ranger station in San Miguel. The “rangers” also
act as guides for about $10 per day. Camping is available wherever
there is space. Be sure to pack out everything that you pack in. The
higher-elevation portion of the reserve is accessible only from the
area around Lago Cuicocha, northwest of Otavalo in the highlands
(see Northern Highlands , page 127, 135).
The rainy season, from December through May, is better for trans-
portation along the waterways, although there are more mosquitoes
- especially at dawn and dusk. The cooler, drier season from August
to December offers a more pleasant climate and better wildlife view-
ing, but the lower river levels make navigation more difficult. June
through August is generally nice.
The best way to see this region is by staying in the community of
Playa de Oro along the Río Santiago or the community of San Miguel
along the Río Cayapas. From Borbón, make arrangements for the
two-hour boat ride to either village. The Cotacachi-Cayapas Reserve
itself can be reached via San Miguel and the Río Cayapas.
The People of Cotacachi-Cayapas
Two distinct cultures, the Afro-Ecuadorians and the native
Chachi people, dominate the area in and around Cotacachi-
Cayapas. As early as the 1500s, the Spanish began trans-
porting African slaves into the Esmeraldas province to
work in gold mines and on plantations. Today's Afro-
Ecuadorians are descendants of these slaves. Historically
one of the most suppressed people in all of Ecuador, their
culture nevertheless flourishes with a particular rhythm
and tradition of dance and music. Colorful songs and cele-
brations echo with Pacific rhythms from instruments such