Western Slopes to the Pacific Coast - Adventure Guide to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands - page 254

cal reserves. The Andinatel phone office is on Av. Camilo Ponce
across from the Hotel San Carlos. Buses depart daily from the main
square for Esmeraldas and Ibarra in the Andes.
Touring & Sightseeing
Esmeraldas & North Coast
Four to six hours from Quito, depending on road condi-
tions and how “loco” your driver is, the ocean port capital
of Esmeraldas rises up above the coast. The view is attrac-
tive from a distance, especially as the city lights begin to
sparkle against the backdrop of the sun setting over the Pacific. Upon
closer inspection, though, this bustling port and booming oil-refinery
town is not a place you will want to spendmuch time. Now the largest
port in the north, with a population approaching 150,000 people,
Esmeraldas is growing rapidly. It is a popular travel destination for
vacationing Colombian and Ecuadorian highlanders. The country's
trans-Andean oil pipeline from the Oriente ends here, and a new oil
refinery has boosted employment and the economy. Unfortunately, it
has also resulted inEsmeraldas being less pleasant andmore danger-
ous than it once was, with rapid urban growth and crime. Neverthe-
less, it is a jumping-off point for some of the regional attractions.
Esmeraldas has the most modern facilities in the region. The better
hotels and beaches - though “better” is a relative term - are found in
Las Palmas , the suburb to the northwest of Esmeraldas. Mail
service, communications, banking, and medical facilities are avail-
able, although they are better in Quito. The major access to
Esmeraldas from Quito is via Santa Domingo or by plane to the
nearby airport, about 20minutes away. Taxis are available at the air-
port.
Unfortunately, Esmeraldas is very unsafe in
virtually all parts of town. Always take a taxi at
night and avoid the city center and downtown
Malecón or waterfront area after dark. Even
Las Palmas is not safe, so always be aware of
your surroundings.
Río Verde
A couple of hours northeast along the coast from Esmeraldas is the
small community of Río Verde, noted here primarily as the home of
Cabañas Pura Vida (see Where to Stay below), which is a very