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Ecuadorian. Here was yet another incredibly beautiful culture
staring back at us as we passed.
Finally, we came around a bend and there it was - the coast,
with thin, sandy beaches and rough, choppy waves. Far from
the tropical Caribbean beaches I had expected, this is indeed the
Pacific Ocean, where the sand connects thick vegetation with
pounding surf. Our journey was far from over, however, and we
headed north. At one point, where the poorly maintained road
actually turned onto the beach, we had to wait an hour for the
tide to recede. It was a wonderful social gathering, with women
capitalizing on the event by selling fresh-cooked seafood dishes,
and the men taking the opportunity to break from the day's
work. Finally, our bus driver could wait no longer, and as our
guide had guessed, he was the first to make a go through the wet
sand and waves. Soon enough we were all on our way across the
beach.We have just arrived at our ocean-side lodge and now it's
time to relax. Tomorrow's journey will carry us far upriver into
the coastal lowland tropical forest. We will stay near a mixed
black-Indian community. The people here are so friendly, with
many warm smiles. I can't wait to absorbmyself in their culture
and explore the magic of their land. (Traveler's account)
Esmeraldas is the main city along the north coast and is located
about a half-day's drive northwest from Quito. Most international
travelers that come to Esmeraldas are just passing through, heading
northwest to explore the lowland rainforests or southeast to play on
the beaches. Pockets of Afro-Ecuadorian communities line the shore,
while long thin beaches approach coastal inlets, shrimp farms, and a
few remaining mangrove swamps. To the north the land is less acces-
sible and the roads are less reliable. The climate is hot and wet, and
canoes are the main means of transportation. Although the majority
of coastal and western lowland Ecuador has been deforested, this re-
gion has not been quick to accept the idea of a paved society. It is still
one of the wildest, remotest, and most biologically diverse places in
the entire world.
History
The northern coastal provinces of Esmeraldas and
ManabĂ­ have a rich and varied history that is unique
within the country. Evidence of early inhabitants is found
along the central coast in the form of earthenware figu-
rines from the Valdivia culture, dating back to before 1500 BC. This
culture eventually became absorbed into other groups that united un-
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