Cuenca & the Southern Highlands - Adventure Guide to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands - page 217

Experience native life as it has remained in the rural highlands since
the 16th century. Admire scenic vistas. Climb steep switchbacks.
Scramble through tight rock formations. Hop across narrow rivers
and hike throughmuddymarshlands. Follow forgotten footpaths and
camp among ancient ruins. And end at the best-preserved Inca tem-
ple in Ecuador. If you have a few days and enjoy camping and back-
packing, then this is the trip for you.
Outfitters in Quito, Riobamba, and Cuenca offer complete tour pack-
ages. It's also possible to hire a local guide for logistical support. The
nearest major town for an overnight before beginning the hike is
Alausí, between Riobamba and Cuenca. From Alausí, head to
Achupallas, about 15 miles away, where the trek begins. Ask around
for a local camioneta , which should cost no more than $10. Carry all
camping equipment and enough food and water for up to four days
(you won't find much in Achupallas). The route is difficult to follow in
some places, and good topographic maps (IGM 1:50,000 Juncal) are
required if you plan to go without a guide.
El Cajas National Park
To thewest of Cuenca, El Cajas is one of the better places to visit if you
are looking for time away from “civilization.” It is a stark and stun-
ning place. While breathtaking, El Cajas is not a place for the casual
naturalist, and is far from a “walk in the park.” At over 13,080 feet,
the páramo countryside is exposed to harshweather. Rain and persis-
tent winds are common. Camping requires quality gear and a sense of
stoicism, while trails are steep and difficult to follow. Bring a guide or
a goodmap and a keen sense of direction. Of use are the IGM1:50,000
maps of Cuenca, Chaucha and Chinquintad.
A hike around Laguna Toreadora , near the visitors' center, makes
for a nice day-long excursion from Cuenca. Arrive early in the morn-
ing to give yourself a chance of good weather. A full day is required to
summit Cerro San Luis , on the opposite side of the lake from the
park refuge. Other multi-day hikes beyond the refuge are equally
worthwhile, but, unless you're an experienced camper and
backcountry navigator, they require a guide. El Cajas offers some
great overnight trekking opportunities and wonderful vistas.
To get to the main entrance and visitors' center of El Cajas, take the
road from Cuenca to Miguir. Buses depart from Cuenca to Miguir
early in the morning - the ride takes about 1½ hours to Lake
Toreadora, where youwill find local visitors on the weekends. The en-
trance station is before the visitors' center and lake.