Cuenca & the Southern Highlands - Adventure Guide to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands - page 213

Saraguro Indians
Nearly four hours south of Cuenca toward Loja, and a bit
beyond the small town of Ona, is the large indigenous popu-
lation of Saraguro. Uniquely identified in traditional attire,
the proud Amerindians were relocated during the Inca
reign from the remote southern stretch of Bolivia's Lake
Titicaca. Today, their language (still Quichua, but very dis-
tinct), culture and attire persevere and set them apart from
any other group in Ecuador. Be sure to visit the market in
town on Sunday, when rural natives arrive in splendor to
shop, sell and trade. You can't miss the town. Its entrance is
marked with a huge sign proclaiming their pride and im-
portance.
Loja
Just over five hours south of Quito by bus, Loja is Ecuador's southern-
most city, far removed from any other major population center and
therefore relatively unaffected by fast-paced transformation that the
rest of the country is undergoing. Loja is a good jumping-off point for
exploring Podocarpus National Park, to the southeast, and the south-
ern Oriente. Alternatively, many travelers following the gringo trail
or heading to Peru, continue farther south toward the village of
Vilcabamba. Although the Pan-American continues toward Peru, it is
not a well-traveled route. Some travelers heading south to Peru stop
here for a relaxing layover.
Founded in 1548, Loja is the oldest colonial city in Ecuador, and its
relative isolation down through the years has allowed it to maintain
an atmosphere of tradition. Today, Loja boasts more than 120,000 in-
habitants. Set at an altitude of 6,867 feet, the city enjoys a climate
that is quite pleasant throughout the year. The pace here is slow and
the people are friendly. All you really have to do in Loja is relax and
enjoy the scenery.
The original section of downtown Loja was developed in a traditional
colonial pattern, with compact streets and square blocks that are lo-
cated around the main plaza at the cross streets of 10 de Agosto and
Bolívar. Abutting the plaza is the Catedral, as well as other museums
and points of interest. Wandering around by foot is easy; the down-
town area is of most interest to the foreign traveler. Once you get the
itch to visit Podocarpus or Vilcabamba, it's time to move on.