Cuenca & the Southern Highlands - Adventure Guide to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands - page 209

There are 52 churches in Cuenca, one for each
Sunday of the year. Most of them are
conveniently located within several square
blocks of the plaza. If your interest lies in
architecture or religious sites, pick up a nicely
illustrated map from the Minesterio de Turismo
tourist office (Miguel 686 and Córdova) for an
artistic idea of where the best ones are located.
Catedral de la Immaculada
Adjacent to Parque Calderón, dominating the entire west side of the
square, is the massive new cathedral, la Catedral de la Immaculada,
referred to locally as simply La Catedral. If the outside view does not
impress you, take a step through the doorway and enter a building in-
tended to hold 10,000 people (don't forget to take off your hat). The ex-
traordinary size of the structure and the many worshipers praying
inside are a true testimony to the significance of religion, and particu-
larly the Catholic Church, in Ecuadorian lives. During a recent visit
there were women kneeling in front of the altar and chanting. The
beauty of their song echoing among silent worshippers in such an
enormous space was truly moving.
The cathedral is a fairly recent addition to Cuenca. Construction of
the building began in 1885 when the city (or the church) decided it
had outgrown the old cathedral, El Sagrario , located along the
southeastern side of the plaza. The old cathedral grewup over an Inca
site with colonial Cuenca itself, beginning in 1557. The recently reno-
vated old church still has a few Inca stones visible, facing the plaza.
The new cathedral is on Cordero, between Bolívar and Sucre, across
Parque Calderón from the old cathedral.
El Carmen de la Asunción
Although the church, built in the 17th century, is not always open,
this is one of my favorite street corners, particularly for the mystery
inside and the spectacular flower market out front. A group of nuns in
the attached convent live in seclusion from the rest of the world, de-
voted entirely to the higher calling of eternal prayer. They do not ven-
ture much into the outside world, and visitors provide offerings at the
church entrance. Meanwhile, the colorful flower market in the plaza
stands in stark contrast to the solemnity within. If you enjoy photog-
raphy, this is a hot spot, but, due to the narrow streets and high colo-
nial structures, the window of opportunity for proper lighting is