Cuenca & the Southern Highlands - Adventure Guide to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands - page 207

Cuenca
Cuenca, set below the sprawlingmass of Chimborazo and the Avenue
of the Volcanoes, is the major urban center in the south. The topogra-
phy here is harsh and steep, intermixed with deep, lush, and fertile
valleys. The difficult terrain has kept Cuenca and the region south of
it disassociated from the rest of Ecuador for many years. It is only
within the last several decades that transportation and communica-
tion have linked this area with the rest of the country. As a result, a
distinct colonial charm persists in this provincial capital and the peo-
ple remain more or less untainted by the effects of tourism. Cuenca
also supports a flourishing arts community and is one of the country's
cultural centers.
At 7,684 feet in elevation, Cuenca lies within a lush river valley
flanked by mountain ridges and divided east-to-west by the Río
Tomebamba. Just north of Tomebamba is the original colonial section
of town. This area is of most historical interest to the traveler and pro-
vides many lodging and restaurant options. To the south is modern
Cuenca, which includes the university, stadium, businesses, and sub-
urbs. As with many places in Ecuador, geographic features delineate
the city's boundaries. In the north, the city ends with the valley at the
Río Machángara, and in the far south two more rivers, the Yanuncay
and Tarquí, form the border. Cuenca is thus also known as the City of
Four Rivers.
Hot Springs in Baños
Not to be confused with the resort town of Baños, described
in the previous chapter, the sulfur springs at this Baños, a
few miles southwest of Cuenca, are much hotter. If it's
peace and quiet you're after, then you should probably come
here during the week, as it is a popular weekend getaway
for Cuenca locals seeking relaxation. You can catch a taxi to
this Baños from Cuenca for under $3 or take one of the fre-
quent buses.
There are many attractive and charming sites throughout the colo-
nial section of Cuenca. It's a relatively sleepy city, so you might as
well relax, enjoy the slow pace and take a stroll while visiting some of
these attractions.