Central Highlands - Adventure Guide to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands - page 163

If you are staying here, by now you have figured out that all cities,
towns, and even moderately sized villages are arranged in colonial-
style grid-like patterns, with at least one central plaza and park.
Parque Maldonado is the main plaza in Riobamba. As throughout
the city, there are several well-preserved colonial structures around
the park, including SantaBárbaraCathedral . Other parks include
Parque Sucre and Parque 21 de Abril , which has great views of
the valley.

The Devil's Nose!

Once stretching from the Coastal City of
Guayaquil to the historic Andean capital of
Quito, Ecuador's railway was a true feat. Upon
completion around the turn of the 20th century,
it unified Ecuador for the first time ever. Now, only rem-
nants of this technological wonder remain, a victimof the el-
ements and road development. Today, this train ride is
geared primarily to the foreign traveler and doesn't really
fulfil any practical transportation needs. One particular
section that remains in operation is the spectacular route
between Riobamba and Alausí (not to be confused with
Aloasí, above) to Sibambe . In fact, the railway connected
all the way to Guayaquil until the El Niño storms of 1997.
From the rooftop of the train it is such a spectacular ride,
with views of Chimborazo. An engine on each end of the
train is required to make it up and down the “Devil's Nose,”
which connects a series of steep switchbacks up the moun-
tainside. And the view into native life as you pass indige-
nous villages is a special treat.
From Riobamba, the train departs at around 7 am on
Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays for Alausí and then
down the Nariz del Diablo - the Devil's Nose - to Sibambe
and then back up to Alausí, at which point you have to get
off. Note that this is a full day's journey. You can purchase
tickets at the train station in Riobamba, preferably a day
ahead of time. Alternatively, you can hop on the train at
Alausí to travel down the nose and back. Or, if you are com-
ing from the coast, get off the bus at Sibambe by midday
and catch the ride up to Alausí. Inquire locally in Riobamba
or with South American Explorers in Quito ( /fax 2-225-

228, [e-mail]), as the schedule is irregular and
may have changed.