Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Centre
17 B1
L'As du Fallafel Middle-Eastern mecca
34 rue des Rosiers, 4ème • 01 48 87 63 60
Open all day Sun-Fri
One of many falafel joints on the bustling rue des
Rosiers, but undoubtedly the best. The “special”,
with crunchy chickpea balls cooked to order, fried
aubergine, shredded cabbage, hummus and spicy
sauces will convert non-believers. This is the epitome
of fast food, so don't expect to linger. Cheap
17 C1
L'Ambroisie classy cuisine
9 place des Vosges, 4ème • 01 42 78 51 45
Open lunch & dinner Tue-Sat
Bernard Pacaud's food is sedate and sophisticated,
just like the interior of this 17th-century town house
with high ceilings and gilt flourishes. High-end dining
means polished cooking, artistic presentation and
deluxe ingredients (lobster, foie gras, truffles).
Service is efficient but sometimes frosty. Expensive
Brasseries
When you want a vintage setting, straightforward
food, professional waiters and great atmosphere,
nothing can beat a Parisian brasserie. Many of the
city's most historic examples belong to the Flo
group, whose owner Jean-Paul Bucher founded the
empire in 1968 with the purchase of Brasserie Flo ,
which resembles a hunting lodge but still has the
feel of an Alsatian tavern. Nearby, another Flo
flagship, Julien , brings a dash of class to this gritty
part of town, near the Gare de l'Est, with its glitzy
Art-Nouveau interior. Perhaps the most beloved
Flo brasseries, however, are the Art-Deco La
Coupole - no longer a bona fide literary haunt, but
still a great venue — and the more intimate Le
Balzar , whose purchase by the group sparked an
outcry among its intellectual habitués. The typical
brasserie fare of choucroute (shredded, fermented
cabbage, also known as sauerkraut ), enormous
seafood platters, steaks and sole meunière is
generally good enough in Flo brasseries to prevent
the regulars from grumbling, and the desserts,
such as giant ice-cream sundaes and parfaits,
can be spectacular.
Among the independent brasseries, the Brasserie
de lIsle St-Louis is a favourite for its tavern-like
interior and view of Notre Dame's elegant rear.
Near the Gare St-Lazare, Garnier is known for its
outstanding seafood and rather glamorous setting,
while the down-to-earth Le Grand Colbert , next to
the Palais Royal, may have the oldest interior - part
of the dining room dates from the 17th century.
Whatever the brasserie, try not to be tempted by
the more complex dishes - the kitchens can get
overwhelmed at peak times, resulting in slapdash
preparations. For contact details, see p218 .
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