Streetlife - Paris e-guide: The Travel Guide with its Own Website - page 153

North & East

20 H5

Rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles old Paris
Attracting students from the nearby Cité Universitaire
(see p113) with its cheap food and boho bars (try Le
Temps des Cerises at No. 18 or Chez Paul at No. 22, a
classy bistro), this street offers a slice of village life
among the tower blocks of the 13ème. Another draw
is the 1920s-built outdoor pool at the Piscine Butte-
aux-Cailles (see p13) . But this area really comes into
its own at night, when cheap drinks draw the crowds.

Les Puces de Vanves hagglers' heaven
Avenue Georges Lafenestre and avenue Marc Sangrier, 14ème
Q Porte de Vanves Open 7:30-6 Sat & Sun
Vanves regulars swear that this is the best place for
hidden treasures. It is smaller and friendlier than the
other puces (flea markets), with around 350 stalls sell-
ing everything from chipped china to beautiful antique
furniture, as well as retro jewellery and stacks of col-
lectible magazines and topics. Haggling is expected.

12 F3

Rue Oberkampf grungy good times
Despite the fact that the area around and including rue
Oberkampf has been comprehensively gentrified over
the past five years, it still retains a multicultural feel
and an urban vibe. But these days its residents are
more likely to be cash-happy creatives than struggling
immigrants or salt-of-the-earth types. This part of town
is essentially a night-time destination and it's packed
with bars and restaurants that are all either dive-like or
designer-distressed to varying degrees. The oldest are
still the best: Café Charbon (see p149) and Mecano
Bar at No. 99 continue to pull in the crowds, just as
La Cithea at No. 112 is still a popular club choice.
Running parallel, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud is a little
more down to earth, so expect good, cheap and
unpretentious food at Astier (see p49) , people draw-
ing on the paper tablecloths (crayons are provided) at
the Café Cannibale at No. 93, and songs, readings,
concerts and free couscous (weekends only) at the
warm and welcoming Café Bleu at No. 83.