Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Games
Stop off at the Jardins des Luxembourg (Map 16 E4) for
a spot of cerebral jousting with the chess devotees who
huddle around board-topped tables and do battle through-
out the afternoon. You can either watch or join the
queue to play. Serious card-players also occupy a table
or two. If you prefer a spot of pétanque , try the Arènes
de Lutèce (see p98) . The other players might let you
join in, otherwise, bring your own set and some friends.
Te a
For more suggestions on salons de thé, see p55
Take tea at Ladurée (see p55) , famed for the richest and
thickest hot chocolate around and addictive macaroons.
Alternatively, try a more exotic milieu and sample sticky
baklava and mint tea in Le Ziryab, the restaurant with
the Seine-side view on the top floor of the Institut du
Monde Arabe (see p98) ; or at funky Andy Wahloo (see
p137) , where pop art meets Morocco. Or, just about
every place on boulevard de Belleville (see p159) serves
up palate-cleansing fresh mint tea.
Gallery-Hopping
La Maison Rouge, 10 boulevard de la Bastille, 12ème,
01 40 01 08 81, www.lamaisonrouge.org
St-Germain, with its maze of commercial art galleries,
particularly along rue de Seine, rue des Beaux Arts and
rue de Guénégaud, is the ultimate for an urbane after-
noon wander. Artistic pickings on the Right Bank,
though, can be a little more edgy; explore the art squat
Les Frigos (see p112) and La Maison Rouge (Map 17
D4), a former factory specializing in exhibitions of con-
temporary art from private collections.
Shopping
For more on shopping in Paris, see pp56-91
Go with the flow and shop, shop, shop in the 6th and
7th arrondissements, where the fashion choice is sec-
ond to none. Rue de Grenelle is the magic mile of
designer shoes, with clothes to match. Rue du Cherche
Midi also does a fine line in shoes, bags and bread -
the famed Poilâne bakery is here - while rue des
Sts-Pères is the place to stock up on sexy lingerie and
glamorous outfits. Also, trawl rue du Bac, rue du Dragon,
rue St-Sulpice and rue du Four before collapsing in a
happy heap encircled by shopping bags.
Architectural Treasures
Passage de Retz, 9 rue Charlot, 3ème, 01 48 04 37 99; Pavillon
de l'Arsenal, 21 boulevard Morland, 4ème, 01 42 76 33 97
Much of the cityscape was created between the 17th
and 19th centuries, but you can also pay homage to
some modern masters of architectural design. Le
Corbusier's genius is on display at Villa La Roche (see
p105) ; and the 60s avant-garde French Communist Party
HQ (2 place Colonel Fabien, 19ème, Map 6 E4) is the
work of one of his contemporaries, Brazilian architect
Oscar Niemeyer. Paris's first skyscraper - just 22 storeys
high - was designed by Edouard Albert in the 50s, and
is found at 33 rue de Croulebarbe in the 13th (Map 21
A3). If you've a head for heights, whizz up to the top of
the colossal Grande Arche de la Défense - one of ex-
President Mitterand's Grands Projets - for spectacular
views. A visit to the Pavillon de l'Arsenal (Map 17 C3),
the museum dedicated to architecture and urban design,
will then help explain what you've just surveyed. Wind
down in the Passage de Retz, a former toy factory turned
art gallery. This 17th-century hôtel particulier with a mod-
ern twist also features a boutique and café by the much
sought-after designer Christian Blecher (Map 11 C4).
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