Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
TOP CHOICES - morning
Parisians, in general, are not morning people. The city takes its time to
wake up; so much so that early risers will often find that they have the
streets virtually to themselves. Then, suddenly, it's frantic: shop and kiosk
shutters rattle open, delivery vans unload, Métro stations pour forth com-
muters, cyclists and pedestrians dart through traffic, risking life and limb,
and café counters fill and empty with alarming speed. One of the great joys
is just to sit back and watch the scene unfold. But whatever your plans,
mornings in Paris are worth getting up for. The major museums are less
crowded and, at the other end of the cultural spectrum, there are the
morning markets. No two are alike, and each stall has something tempting
- from stacks of oozing cheeses to buckets of olives and piles of saucisson .
Traditional Markets
Markets, a centuries-old Parisian feature, offer endless
variety - from fat Provençal cherries in spring to hairy
boars' heads in autumn. There are over 80 in the city,
including roving morning markets such as the Marché
Iéna-President Wilson (Wed & Sun, Map 8 E3). Most
start around 8am. Some, such as rue Mouffetard in the
5th (Tue-Sun, Map 20 H1), are all-day, open-air affairs,
while others, such as the Marché Enfants Rouge (Map
11 C4), are covered. The daily flower market on the Ile
de la Cité (Map 16 H1) turns into a squawking bird mar-
ket on Sundays and is definitely worth a visit. At all day-
long markets, the pace is more leisurely in the mornings.
and watch the city wake up over a coffee and a croissant.
Alternatively, begin any weekday morning in plenty of
style with breakfast at
Market, chef Jean-Georges
Vongerichten's fashionable
restaurant (see p40). The
offerings by master pastry
chef Pierre Hermé that are
sold here - including his
famous flavoured maca-
roons - are nothing short
of life-enhancing.
Wheely Fun
For information on bike hire, see p229
Shoot along the banks of the Seine on Rollerblades or a
bike on Sundays (or every day from mid-Jul to mid-Aug),
when the riverside expressways are closed to traffic.
Glide from the Tour Eiffel down to the Musée d'Orsay on
the Left Bank, and from the Tuileries to Bercy on the
Right Bank. Alternatively, the roads and tracks of the vast
and pleasant Bois de Boulogne are perfect for pedalling
or skating - by afternoon, however, the crowds descend.
Best Breakfasts
Café Marly, 93 rue de Rivoli, 1er, 01 49 26 06 60;
Market, 15 avenue Matignon, 8ème, 01 56 43 40 90
Kick-start the day at the Café Marly (which opens at
8am) with a strong espresso and an uncluttered bird's-
eye view of the Louvre's iconic glass pyramid before the
crowds arrive. Or, pull up a chair at one of the cafés on
rue Montorgueil (Map 10 H3) or rue de Buci (Map 16 F2)
Quiet Museums
See www.rmn.fr to check the national museums in Paris
A museum city par excellence , Paris is blessed with
both blockbusting temporary exhibitions and stunning
permanent collections. To beat the crowds, arrive early.
Note that national treasures such as the Louvre, the
Musée d'Orsay and the Centre Pompidou are free on
the first Sunday of each month.
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