Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Leidseplein
The city's tourist hub.
Sophisticated it is not, tacky and
fun (and, at night, often raucous)
it is, especially in summer, when
buskers and street performers,
from family pop groups to lone
fire-eaters, keep the milling
throngs amused. Despite its
rambling, dog-leg shape,
Leidseplein is a natural gathering
place, packed with fast food
stalls, cafés and smoking coffee
shops. Nightspots De Melkweg,
Paradiso, and Holland Casino are
close at hand, while for a more
reflective diversion you can play
chess on a giant outdoor
chessboard in adjacent Max
Euweplein, or stroll in the tiny
Leidsebos park.
d
Map C5
Exploring the Central
Canal Ring
Morning
This compact area is
focused on Amsterdam's
most famous canals, so
why not start the day with
a canal tour. Amsterdam
Canal Cruises start and
end on Singelgracht,
opposite the Heineken
Brewery. From here, it's a
short walk to
Leidseplein
and welcome refreshment
at the
Café Americain
.
Leaving the hubbub of
Leidseplein, walk along
Prinsengracht (passing the
Paleis van Justitie, once
the city orphanage) to
elegant
Leidsegracht
. If
there's time, investigate
the antiques market,
Looier
, in Elandsgracht. For
lunch, try brown cafés Van
Puffelen or Het Molenpad,
or designer hang-out Het
Land van Walem
(see p102)
.
American Hotel
Leidseplein's most famous
landmark is this one-off Dutch
interpretation of Art Nouveau by
Willem Kromhout (1902), which
foretold the Amsterdam School
of architecture. Only the exterior
is of interest: the interior is as
bland as any other chain hotel (in
this case, Crowne Plaza). The
exception is the hotel's famous
Café Americain, with its stained-
glass windows and glass parasol
lampshades. The literati who
once inhabited it may have
disappeared, but it's a welcome
haven from the rigours of
Leidseplein.
d
Map C5
Afternoon
Plunge into the
Negen
Straatjes
for some serious
shopping in its frivolous
shops. You may not be
able to resist the cakes
and chocolate on offer at
salon de thé
Pompadour
(see p104)
. Pop into the
Woonbootmuseum,
moored on Prinsengracht
opposite Elandsgracht, to
marvel at how a bargeman
and his family could have
lived in such a tiny space.
Then cross to Herengracht,
which you will have seen
earlier from the water, and
stroll along, admiring its
architectural gems around
the
Bijbels Museum
and
Golden Bend
(see p99)
. If
it's before 6pm (9pm on
Thu, 5pm on Sun), end the
afternoon with a bird's eye
view of your day's
exploration from the sixth-
floor café at
Metz & Co
(see p99)
.
Looking towards the American Hotel
For more on canal tours
See pp10 and 136
101
