Environmental Engineering Reference
In-Depth Information
Fig. 16.5
Comparison between
computed (a) amplitude and (b) phase
and data from co-tidal charts
(Howarth 1990) of the harmonic
constituent M
2
for different bed
friction coefficients.
data-driven modelling. In essence, this relies on a
statistical
patterns in the wave and profile data, to predict
the beach profile response due to waves (Larson
et al. 2000) and to analyse the evolution patterns of
multiple longshore bars and their interactions
(R
ยด
zynski 2003).
Here, wave measurements and beach profiles
were used to extend the analysis of the beach at
Duck, North Carolina, by Larson et al. (2000) over
a longer period. The data covered beach profile
surveys taken along fixed profiles normal to the
beach line,
analysis
of historical
data
and
extrapolation.
One of these techniques is the Canonical Cor-
relation Analysis (CCA). CCA measures the rela-
tionship between the observed values of two sets
of variables. This method has been used in differ-
ent fields, such as meteorology and climatology
(Barnett and Preisendorfer 1987; Graham et al.
1987; Shen et al. 2001). It has also been used in
the discipline of coastal engineering to detect
and
spectral wave
properties
