Civil Engineering Reference
In-Depth Information
Spiked timber pegs as a fixing point for power outlets
The spiked timber peg supplies a stronger fixing point in a straw bale wall. This peg is
often recommended for the support of cabinets and shelving (see Figure 12.3).
Making and installing a spiked timber peg
Cut a piece of 70 × 19 pine or particleboard approximately 400 mm long, then put two
rows of 75 mm nails through the timber approximately 50 mm apart. The head of the nail
is to be flush with the timber so that 50 mm of nail is protruding through the opposite
side of the timber. Repeat this process from the other side of the timber so that you have a
piece of timber with sharp nails protruding from each side of the timber (see Figure 12.3).
When installing this type of blocking the nails are pressed into the lower layer of
bales and the next row of bales are pressed down onto the nails protruding vertically
from the fixing board. This system gives the greatest strength of fixing, however its
placement in the wall is limited, as it has to be fitted between the rows of bales.
Figure 12.2
Barbed wooden peg to be hammered into
the bale wall onto which the electric wall box is secured
Figure 12.3
Spiked timber peg to be fitted between the
rows of bales onto which the electrical wall box will be
secured
Render and power outlets
Following the application of each coat of render, check that the electrical box is still level.
Once the render has set it is not possible to adjust the position of the electrical wall box
without removing the render. If this does occur the render has to be removed in layers so
that the joint in the render is not in one line. The top coat of render will have to extend
