Babu on the Bad Road - The Best American Travel Writing 2013 - page 100

Babu's cure, that she only feared she might be infected—but, Patten says, “the damage has
been done.”
And the leaves of the tree are for the healing of the nations. No longer will there be any
curse.
— Revelation 22:2-3
Back in Arusha, after my first failed trip to meet Mwasapila, I spend the day in government
offices,talkingtocluelessclerks,waitinginhallways,andpleadingwithboredandimpatient
officials. Nobody seems to know or care who can issue the proper documents to allow an
interview. In the late afternoon, I find myself in an office with Jotham Ndereka, the Arusha
regional information minister. I explain for about the ninth time that I need a permit to go
to Loliondo to interview Mwasapila and take photographs, and he says brightly, “Yes, this is
possible.”
“It is? ” I say, surprised. Ndereka explains that I need a filming permit, such as one might
gettomakeaTVcommercial, andforanextrafee,theMinistry ofInformation canissueone
inaweek.IspendthenextweeklookingforpatientswithHIVwhodrankMwasapila'sliquid
but can find nobody willing to talk to me. I do manage to talk on the phone with the Wasso
Hospitaladministrator,MadameJosephineKashe,whoinvitesmetovisitinpersonifImake
the trip to Samunge.
A week later, I rent the same Land Rover, load it with supplies, and return to Jotham's
office.Theministerpresentshimselfinagraysuit,smilingsmugly.Hehandsmeahandwrit-
ten “Filming Permit” signed by the national minister of information. I thank him and start to
leave when he says, “Wait! If you look at the permit, you will see that your activities are to
be done under the supervision of the Arusha regional information officer. This means I am
to accompany you.” My heart sinks. It appears the government has assigned me a ride-along
censor.
“I do not think that will be possible; I have to leave today,” I say.
“Today?”
“Yes, you told me the permit would be ready, so I have made arrangements that I cannot
change.” He leaves to make a phone call and returns five minutes later to say that everything
is fine, his boss has given him permission to go with me for three days. I tell him I am plan-
ning a four-day trip, and he says that's fine, too; he'll just need me to pay a $40 per diem
for his meals and lodging. 5 He has me over a barrel—I need him to ensure an interview with
Babu—so I ask, “How soon can you be ready?”
Twohourslater,wearedrivingintothesettingsun,fivehoursbehindschedule,butmoving
at last. Jotham has changed into a Tommy Hilfiger shirt, loose jeans, black leather jacket,
and baseball cap. He looks like an American executive at his son's soccer game in Con-