Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The entrance to Twining's tea shop in the Strand.
In 1706 Thomas Twining bought Tom's Coffee Shop in Devereux Court, the narrow
opening just to the west before the half-timbered pub. Coffee drinking was very popular
and Tom's was well placed to attract City merchants and lawyers from the nearby Middle
and Inner Temples. Tea was less popular because of high taxes, but Twining persisted in
offering it and began selling dry tea as well as brewing it on the premises - this may be the
world's first dry tea and coffee shop.
The griffon from the City of London's coat of arms rears up on the
Temple Bar memorial, silhoue_ed against the Law Courts.
The original doorway (1787) with its pair of Chinese gentlemen is a reminder that all
imported tea came from China until the East India Company introduced large commercial
plantations into India in the 1820s. There is a fascinating collection of paintings, prints and
antique tea caddies on display and a huge array of teas to try and to buy.
The Austen family bought their tea from Twining's. In March 1814 Jane wrote to Cas-
sandra from Henrietta Street, 'I am sorry to hear there has been a rise in tea. I do not mean
to pay Twining till later in the day, when we may order a fresh supply.' A few days later she
adds plaintively, 'I suppose my Mother recollects that she gave me no Money for paying
Brecknell & Twining; &
my
funds will not supply enough.'
Opposite are the Royal Courts of Justice, completed in 1882. A few steps east brings us
to the Temple Bar memorial in the middle of the road, marking the spot where the Temple
Bar gate stood from 1351 until 1878. This is the beginning of the City of London and even
today, on ceremonial occasions, the monarch stops here to ask permission to enter the City.
In return the Lord Mayor offers his Sword of State as a token of his allegiance. Ornate rests
for these swords can be found in most City churches, for example in St Clement's, which
we visit later on this walk.
