Hardware Reference
In-Depth Information
If you're looking for a replacement in online stores, try searching with the terms
“220 uF 16v electrolytic capacitor.”
The relative fragility of this piece's connection is one of several good reasons to make
or buy a good case for your Raspberry Pi. Meanwhile, if you need to carry it around,
use the original static bag and box it came in.
Test Your Power Supply
If you do happen to break off the capacitor, and your Pi stops working, take consolation
in the knowledge that you're not the only one, and though it's not covered under war-
ranty, you have a few options. First, a new and better power supply might fix the prob-
lem. With a stable power supply, you shouldn't have any problems.
If you don't know whether your power supply is doing what it should (beyond the
obvious evidence of “it works” or “it doesn't work”), you can test it. The first sign that
you're not getting consistent or strong enough power is not an
unworking
Pi, but rather
an
unreliable
one.
When things start acting up mid-stream—all was fine at first, then maybe when you
get into the GUI, the peripherals stop working—that's when it's time to check your
voltage. The Pi has test points labeled TP1 and TP2 to help you. TP1 is just under the
Raspberry Pi logo, and TP2 is between the GPIO and the RCA out.
Set your multimeter to 20V in the DC range and touch the leads to TP1 and TP2. The
reading should be near 5 volts and certainly no more than 0.25 volts away in either
direction.
Replace the C6 Capacitor
If your Pi is still not working or if you just want the capacitor back on there, you can
solder a new one on.
Soldering on a new capacitor
might
make your Raspberry Pi as good as new. It
definitely
will void your Raspberry Pi warranty.
When you solder it back on, note that the capacitor is polarized, and thus it is critical
to have the black stripe facing the edge of the board. For some basic soldering tips,
check out
“Soldering Reminders” on page
42
.
