Graphics Programs Reference
In-Depth Information
Step Five:
A landscape photo like this, with lots of
well-defined edges and texture, is just
screaming out for Clarity! (You can hear
it, can't you?) So, I cranked it up here
quite a bit, to +53. This tends to give the
image a little tiny bit of an HDR feel, so
if you're an anti-HDRite (and you know
who you are), then don't drag it as far as
I did (you might want to stop at +20 or
+25). I also increased the Vibrance to +17
to punch up the colors a little more. As
I go through this process, at certain times
the overall image may look a little too
dark or two bright, and if either is the
case, I just drag the Exposure slider a
little to the right if I need it brighter, or
left if it's too bright. It was looking a little
dark, so I increased the Exposure from
-0.65 up to -0.50.
Step Six:
Okay, to me that sky is starting to look
too light again, and I can't lower the
Exposure any more, or the whole photo
will be underexposed, so we're going
to add a neutral density gradient filter
effect (out in the field, I'd do this by
putting a filter in front of my lens that
graduates from a dark gray down to
transparent. That way, it darkens the sky,
but leaves the foreground alone, which
helps balance landscape photos where
your foreground exposure looks right, so
your sky isn't way too bright). However, if
you didn't have that filter with you, you
can replicate it here in Camera Raw. Click
on the Graduated Filter tool in the toolbar
up top. When the panel appears, lower
the Exposure and the Highlights amounts,
then increase the Saturation. Now, click-
and-drag from the top of the image to
around the horizon line, and it darkens
the top of the sky, then trails off (but it
also intensifies the blue color in the sky,
because you increased the color satura-
tion, too). For more on how to use the
Graduated Filter, see page 109.
 
 
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