Graphics Programs Reference
In-Depth Information
Step Two:
Before you create your pano, here's
something to consider: if you just jump
over to Photoshop and create your pano,
when you see it next, it will be a regular
8-bit Photoshop image (in other words,
it won't be a RAW image any longer).
That's why I like to do some up-front
image tweaking, while those images are
still in RAW format, before we “bake it”
and turn it into a regular Photoshop file.
So, since those pano images are already
selected, just double-click on any one of
them to open them all in Camera Raw
(as shown here). Press
Command-A (PC:
Ctrl-A)
to select all the images you just
opened (that way, any changes you make
to one image are automatically applied
to the rest of the pano frames). Now, let's
increase the Exposure (here, I went to
+0.10) and Contrast (to +39), pull back
the Highlights to -66 to bring back some
detail and dimension in the sky, bump the
Shadows up to +78, so we can see more
detail in the shadow areas, and lastly,
let's crank the Clarity to +81 and the
Vibrance to +24. Now, don't click Open
Images, just click Done.
Step Three:
Back in Mini Bridge, the thumbnails of
those images will now have a little circu-
lar adjustment badge icon, letting you
know they've been adjusted in Camera
Raw. Make sure those images are still
selected (everything between the two
finger shots), then Right-click on any
one of those thumbnails and from the
pop-up menu that appears, under Photo-
shop, choose
Photomerge
(as shown
here).
Note:
If you opened your photos
in Photoshop, then you can go under the
File menu, under Automate, and choose
Photomerge. Either way, they both will
get you to the same place, but I prefer
going directly from the RAW images,
if possible.
(Continued)
