Graphics Programs Reference
In-Depth Information
Step Five:
The final step here is to jump over to the
Detail panel (it's the third icon from the
left) and crank up the Sharpening Amount
quite a bit (here, I cranked it up to 70),
which completes the HDR look (a before/
after is shown on the next page, along
with some other images where I used
Camera Raw to create the HDR look).
Besides using Camera Raw, there is an
HDR Toning feature in Photoshop that
you can apply to a single image, and it
uses the same presets and underlying
techniques as HDR Pro. It doesn't do a
bad job, but honestly I think you can get
a better HDR look for single images using
the new Camera Raw, so I just go with
that. However, you at least should know
where HDR Toning is and give it a try to
see what you think.
Step Six:
Go under the Image menu, under Ad-
justments, and choose
HDR Toning
(of
course, before you do that, open your
original image in Photoshop). Here are
some settings that get you a decent faux-
HDR look: Set your Edge Glow Radius
to 100, the Strength to 0.84, and turn on
Smooth Edges to hide the harsh edge
lines. In the Tone and Detail section, set
your Gamma to 0.82 and your Exposure
to -0.57 to darken the image a bit. Set
your Detail to +214% to add lots of
crispness, then set your Shadow slider
to -100% to darken and hide some of
the speckled dots that are starting to
appear in the shadow areas. Crank up
the Vibrance and Saturation a bit to add
in some color. Lastly, add an S-Curve
(see page 183 earlier in this chapter for
more on this) to add more contrast to
your image. You'll notice there are some
funky edge problems along the windows
and in some other areas, which is another
reason I prefer Camera Raw.
