Graphics Programs Reference
In-Depth Information
Step 11:
Okay, now we can go back and turn on
the Edge Smoothness checkbox. You'll
see the image soften a bit, but at the
same time, you'll see more detail come
out (which is great for this type of look).
Remember back in Step Four when we
turned it on, we really didn't see much
of anything? Well, toggle it on/off a few
times and you'll see that it now really
adds a lot. By the way, in the previous
step, when we increased the contrast,
it made the highlights a little too bright,
so I went back to the Highlight slider
and pulled them back to -80, since the
stone floor was starting to blow out in
some areas. Note: At this point, you
could save this as an HDR Pro preset
(click on the icon to the right of the
Preset pop-up menu and choose Save
Preset to add it to the list).
Step 12:
Now, click the OK button at the bottom
right to have Photoshop process the
image. When it's done, the HDR image
appears in Photoshop (as seen here).
There's something many people don't re-
alize about the post-production process
of HDR images: there's always a second
round of processing in Camera Raw. How
do you get your image back into Camera
Raw? First, you have to save it as a TIFF,
PSD, or JPEG (if you want to keep it in
16 -bit mode, save it as a TIFF or PSD), so
choose Save As from the File menu (as
shown here), give your image a name,
click Save, and then close the image.
Next, under the File menu, choose Open
(PC: Open As) . When the dialog appears,
click on the image you just saved, and
from the Format (PC: Open As) pop-up
menu at the bottom, choose Camera
Raw (as shown here) to have the image
open in Camera Raw for processing,
and then click Open.
 
 
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