Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Classes & Facilities
Express trains offer two classes of passage - upper class and ordinary class; long-dis-
tance trains also offer sleepers. The main difference between ordinary and upper is that
the seats recline and can be reserved in the latter, while ordinary class features hard up-
right seats that can't be reserved. Some trains also offer another class of service called
1st class, which is a step down from upper in comfort.
Sleeper carriages accommodate four passengers, have air-conditioning that may or
may not work, linens and blankets and their own toilet. We had one to ourselves from
Bagan to Yangon but it was also sealed off with no through corridor to the rest of the train.
If you'd prefer to move around the train and meet fellow passengers, an upper-class seat
will be better.
Long-distance trains have dining cars accessible to passengers in 1st, upper and sleep-
er class. The food isn't bad - fried rice and noodles. Attendants can also take your order
and bring food to your seat or pass it through the window.
Trains stop pretty often too, with vendors on platforms offering all sorts of snacks. Bath-
rooms are basic; there are also sinks to wash hands and brush teeth. Attendants some-
times hire out bamboo mats to spread on the floor in aisles or under seats if you can't
sleep upright. It can get cold at night, so bring a jacket and/or a blanket.
The express trains are far superior to the general run of Myanmar trains. Other trains
are late, almost by rule - taking one 12-hour train trip that ends up running as much as 15
hours late is enough for most travellers. The Mandalay to Myitkyina route, though sched-
uled to take around 24 hours, can take up to 40 hours. Even on the far-more-travelled
Yangon-Mandalay route delays are common, particularly in the rainy season when the
tracks are prone to flooding.
Reservations
For most major routes you should be able to buy tickets directly at the train stations, using
the same ticket windows as the locals. Payment is usually required in US dollars. Smaller
stations sometimes require some perseverance to get a ticket, as agents aren't used to
foreigners climbing on.
A day or two's notice is usually enough to book a seat, but if you desire a coveted
sleeper, you'll need at least a couple of days' notice - longer during the high season
(November to March). If you hold a seat on a train pulling a sleeper car, you can try to up-
grade to a berth after you board by paying the additional fare directly to the conductor.
If you're having trouble buying a ticket or making yourself understood at a train station,
try seeking out the stationmaster (
yonepain
in Burmese) - the person at the station who is
most likely to speak English and most inclined to help you get a seat.
