Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
an overloaded fast boat sank two minutes after leaving Bhamo in 2012, foreigners
have been officially banned from taking the speedier boats.
This being Myanmar, the rule is not enforced rigidly. While you'll have no luck
getting on a fast boat in Bhamo, you may be allowed on one in smaller ports such
as Shwegu and Kyaukmyaung. Foreigners are still able to take the Katha-Mandalay
express boat.
While the ban is annoying if you're in a rush, in truth the fast boats are more un-
comfortable than the IWT ferries and often dangerously overcrowded. The moral is
that if you decide to travel the Ayeyarwady, be prepared to take your time.
IWT Ferries
These two-/three-storey craft are the cheapest option and the best for interacting
with locals but they're slow, unreliable and not very comfortable for long journeys.
Routes
They run three times a week between Bhamo and Mandalay (Monday,
Wednesday and Friday) with stops in Shwegu, Katha, Ti Kyaing, Tagaung and
Kyaukmyaung. Ferries can be a day or more late so don't be in a hurry.
Tickets
Ticket-purchasing procedures vary by port but foreigners always need to
pay with pristine US dollar bills, sometimes at the relevant IWT office. Agency
bookings aren't possible and there are no seat reservations, indeed no seats
whatever, just cold metal decks.
Comfort & Provisions
You'll generally need to sleep aboard at least one night,
maybe three nights northbound from Mandalay to Bhamo. A few simple cabins are
available ($60, shared toilet) but most folk travel deck class (maximum fare $12)
for which you'll need your own mat and bedding. Snacks and drinks are sold on-
board, but are comparatively pricey. Food can also be bought at the boat stops.
Fast Boats
Long covered motorboats carrying between 30 and 80 passengers. Departures are
regular.
Routes
Fast boats make daily one-day hops on the following sections, always trav-
elling by day (each sector will be in a different boat): Myitkyina-Sinbo,
Sinbo-Bhamo, Bhamo-Shwegu-Katha and Katha-Mandalay.
Tickets
Usually purchased just before departure, or one day before for
Katha-Mandalay.
Comfort & Provisions
The wooden bench seats are small and often partly broken.
Life jackets may not be available. You'll need to sleep at local guesthouses, which
are very basic in Sinbo, Shwegu and Katha. Bring plenty of drinking water. You can
buy food at the brief intermediate halts.
