Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
POPULATION C4000
An almost imperceptible rise means that the attractive village of Hanlin (Halingyi, Halin,
Halim) sits very slightly above the pan-flat surrounding plains. For centuries this geo-
graphical advantage was deeply significant and the site was home to a large city over
1600 years ago. The few visitors who brave seriously rough roads to get here come to ex-
plore the area's various archaeological remains. But unless you're desperately interested
in the subject, Hanlin is an underwhelming experience, mainly because the site is poorly
run and signposted. Before leaving Shwebo, be sure to visit Shwebon Yadana and warn
the archaeological office there that you will be visiting Hanlin. Even so, you will likely
have to go in search of the various key-holders to the sites yourself.
SHWEBO THANAKHA
Wherever you go in Myanmar you'll find hawkers selling thanakha,the sandalwood-
like logs that are ground to a paste and smeared on the skin as ubiquitous sun-
block. Shwebo's thanakhais considered the country's sweetest-smelling and
forms the subject of a famous folk song, and if you want a gift to delight guest-
house grandmas elsewhere in Myanmar, you won't do better. It's sold on the south-
ern approach cloister to Shwe Daza Paya.
Sights
Archaeological Zone
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES
(admission $5, free with Shwebon Yadana ticket)
The 32 excavation sites here date back to the
Pyu era (4th to 9th centuries AD). The sites rise above Hanlin village and survey the
plains for a surprising distance; archaeologists have found large, low sections of brick-
works that once formed part of a
wall
enclosing a complex that was 2 miles wide and 1
mile long. Many of the sites have yielded pottery and coins.
Several of the excavated
grave sites
can be visited. To nonspecialists, they look relat-
ively similar (metal-roofed barns covering in-situ skeletons whose depth is a guide to
their antiquity). If you don't want to spend hours seeing everything, consider making a
beeline for
Site 29
where you can still see the ornaments and weapons with which the
bodies were buried.
The excavations are scattered over several square miles, so you'll need wheels. An ar-
chaeology department fixer might be willing to accompany you but more likely you'll be
on your own. The key-holders at each sub-site expect a tip (K1000), which is a good way
