Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
masse during the annual
Bawgyo Paya Pwe
culminating on the full moon day of
Tabaung (February/March).
The pagoda's current incarnation is an eye-catching 1995 structure of stepped gilded
polygons, within which the dome supposedly incorporates genuine rubies. The name
translates loosely as 'Dad come and get me', and the original pagoda was built centuries
earlier by a heartbroken Shan king who had married off his daughter, warrior-princess
Saw Mun La, to the Burmese king as part of a Shan-Burma peace deal. The Burmese
king adored her but, as the seventh wife in his harem, her presence and growing favour
caused trouble. Jealous concubines set about denouncing her as a spy. The king didn't
fall for the lies but realised that he'd better get her out of his court before the other wives
murdered her. The plan should have worked, but on the long, arduous route back to her
father's court she fell ill. The Shan king was sent for but arrived to find her already dead
of a mystery sickness. The point where she died became the site of a pagoda to underline
Shan-Burmese friendship.
DON'T MISS
HSIPAW'S SHAN PALACE
Hsipaw was ruled by a sawbwa(sky prince) until the advent of the military junta
that seized power in 1962 ended the centuries-old tradition of the different regions
of Shan State being run as separate kingdoms by 32 sky princes. The last sawbwa
of Hsipaw disappeared during the army takeover (the book Twilight over Burma;
My Life as a Shan Princess,written by his wife Inge Sargent, describes the tragic
events), leaving his nephew Mr Donald in charge of the family palace. Imprisoned
himself for a number of years and then placed under effective house arrest, during
which time the palace was closed, Mr Donald is now free thanks to the reforms My-
anmar has undergone since 2011, and people can once again visit the palace.
In truth, it's not a palace in the traditional sense. Built in 1924, it's a fading, al-
though still impressive, English-style mansion set in rundown grounds. But if the
building is infused with a melancholic air, then the charming Mr Donald and his
wife Fern make very gracious hosts. They welcome visitors in their sitting room
decorated with family photos and will relate the fascinating history of their ancest-
ors and the sad fate of the last sawbwa.
While there is no admission fee, a donation (given respectfully) is expected and
goes towards maintaining the palace. Mrs Fern is also a keen reader and always ap-
preciates new books in English. In theory, the palace is open for a few hours each
day (9am to noon and 4pm to 6pm; if the gates are chained, they're not receiving
visitors). To reach it, cross the bridge at the northern end of Namtu Rd, turn right
