Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
MOUSTACHE BROTHERS - FROM SLAPSTICK TO SATIRE
In 1996 the internationally celebrated Moustache Brothers performed an
Independence Day show at Aung San Suu Kyi's Yangon compound, telling politic-
ally tinged jokes about Myanmar generals. For two of the three 'brothers' (Par Par
Lay and Lu Zaw), the result was arrest and seven years' hard labour. Several Holly-
wood comedians (including Rob Reiner and Bill Maher) wrote to the government in
protest while the third brother, Lu Maw, kept the Mandalay show going with the
help of his wife.
After their release in 2002, the reunited Moustache Brothers remained 'blacklis-
ted' from playing at outside events (marriages, funerals, festivals and so on).
However, they played a series of gala performances at home attended - inevitably
- by government agents, nicknamed 'KGB' by Lu Maw. The regional commander
soon summoned Par Par Lay and demanded that all performances stop, even in his
house. But when Par Par Lay got home, some Westerners had already gathered for
that night's show. Imaginatively, the troupe decided to go ahead without costumes
and makeup, arguing that a costumeless show would be a 'demonstration' not a
real 'performance'. Somehow, it worked. Following the September 2007 troubles,
the group's original leader Par Par Lay (who passed away in August 2013) suffered
another month in jail. But the shows - now entirely in English - have never
stopped. Costumes have reappeared, at least for the dancers, adding colour to the
concrete box theatre room that's adorned with photos of the brothers' glory days
and their many celebrity encounters.
Dance, Music & Puppet Shows
Evening shows, professionally performed but aimed squarely at tourist audiences, have
helped rekindle interest in traditional dance and puppetry. The most authentic perform-
ances are set to a six-piece 'orchestra' led by a distinctively wailing
hneh
(an oboe-like
instrument). The other musicians are percussionists, playing gamelan-style arrangements
on gongs and tuned circles of mini-drums known as
saiwai
. As well as the listings here,
you can also see a selection of performances during dinner shows at several upmarket
hotels, and at Mya Nandar (
Click here
)
riverside restaurant.
Mandalay Marionettes
PUPPET SHOW
(
www.mandalaymarionettes.com
; 66th St at 27th St; admission K10,000; 8.30pm)
On a tiny
stage, colourful marionettes expressively recreate snippets of traditional tales. Occasion-
ally a sub-curtain is lifted so that you can briefly admire the deft hand movements of the
puppeteers (one an octogenarian), who have also performed internationally.
