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open-air swimming pool in a lush semi-jungle setting. Room decor doesn't always quite
live up to expectations, but better rooms do stare straight down the eastern moat towards
Mandalay Hill. Wi-fi is only full strength in the lobby.
Paying by credit card adds 4.5% and requires a three-night minimum stay.
WONDERFUL WATER
Modern
Mya Kyauk monastery
near the base of Yankin Hill is graced by a grandly
sparkling gilded stupa. But its fame revolves around a subterranean source of
moderately alkaline mineral drinking water found by faith-led digging in 1998. The
water supposedly 'promotes IQ and ameliorates diabetes, constipation, gout and
morning sickness'. By day it's available to the faithful from faucets at the monas-
tery's front gates. More interestingly, with a translator's help, you can seek an audi-
ence with head monk Bhaddanta Khaymar Sarya, who might deign to give you a
bottle of the special H2O. Before opening, try holding the bottle up to the sunlight.
At the right angle, light projects an image reminiscent of a stupa onto the back of
the label. 'Magic', claim the locals - or at least good bottle design.
Central Mandalay
The nearest thing to a 'backpacker zone' is a three-block area around the Nylon Hotel in
Central Mandalay. Don't imagine Bangkok's Khao San Rd. These are ordinary-looking
streets where several cheaper hotels happen to be licensed for foreigners. Places we call
'backpacker hotels' are adept at organising onward and regional transport. You might
need to book ahead to get the hotel you want, especially from November to January
when prices can rise considerably.
There's a growing number of midrange options northeast of the train station including
dozens of older options for $35 to $50 in central blocks south of 27th St, but most are
every bit as dowdy as budget hotels (cigarette burns, battered air-con units, musty bath-
rooms) despite perhaps having a lift and relatively glitzy foyer. Expect many brand-new
options within a year or two.
Rich Queen Guesthouse
BACKPACKER HOTEL $
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