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my guide had been told that the previous week she had turned three foreigners
back. I assumed that the official simply wasn't aware of the new rules and didn't
want to get herself in trouble, but my guide insisted that she was motivated by
politics (he was NLD, she USDP) and/or fishing for a bribe.
Finally, more than two hours after I had arrived, my guide was able to get a hold
of his friend, a high-ranking official in Loikaw's immigration office. After a sheepish
phone conversation, the local immigration officer relinquished, allowing me to pro-
ceed only after making my guide write a handwritten letter declaring that he would
never meet an FIT travelling from Nyaunshwe again - seemingly her last-ditch ef-
fort at saving face.
In the end, I made it to Loikaw, but the ordeal compounded the fact that even in
the 'new' Myanmar, old paranoia, political alliances, personal connections and con-
founding bureaucracy remain as strong as ever - almost certainly stronger than
the rule of law.
By Austin Bush, Lonely Planet author
Eating
For a tasty budget breakfast, head to the knot of
noodle stalls and teashops
(Shwe Taung
Rd; mains from K500;
6am-3pm)
off Shwe Taung Rd.
Shan Noodle Shop
SHAN $
(NH5, no roman-script sign; mains from K500; 6am-8pm)
A Shan family here put together
tasty bowls of
shàn k'auq-swèh
. The noodle shop is located on a corner, a block south of
the monument; look for the large tree.
Mingala Hin Htoke
BURMESE $
(Kant Kaw Rd, no roman-script sign; mains K500; 9am-6pm)
Locals come here for
hìn t'ouq,
an Intha dish of steamed banana leaf packets of rice with pork or chicken. Look for the
tiny blue sign.
Shwe Let Yar
BURMESE $
(no roman-script sign; set meals from K2300; 11am-7pm)
Generally considered Loikaw's
best curry restaurant; ask for the curry of the day and don't be afraid to try the delicious
balachaung,
a spicy dip.
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