Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Whether these indicate possible Mahayana or Tantric influence is a hotly debated issue
among art historians. Some drawings are rather crudely touched up.
The three-shrine design hints at links with the Hindu Trimurti (triad) of Vishnu, Shiva
and Brahma, a triumvirate also associated with Tantric Buddhism. You might also say it
represents the Triple Gems of Buddhism (buddha, dhamma and sangha), except that such
a design is uncommon in Asian Buddhist architecture, although it does appear in the
Hindu shrines of India and Nepal.
Thambula Pahto
BUDDHIST TEMPLE
This square temple, surrounded by crumbling walls just north of Payathonzu, is decor-
ated with faded Jataka frescoes and was built in 1255 by Thambula, the wife of King Uz-
ana. It's often locked, but go to the (shaded at midday) doors and peek through the gate
to see into wall and ceiling murals.
A mural of a boat race can be seen from the southern entrance; good ceiling murals are
seen from the north side.
Nandamannya Pahto
BUDDHIST TEMPLE
Dating from the mid-13th century, this small, single-chambered temple has very fine
frescoes and a ruined seated buddha image. It's about 650ft (200m) north of Thambula; a
sign leads down a short dirt road. The murals' similarity with those at Payathonzu has led
some art historians to suggest they were painted by the same hand.
Nandamannya earns its reputation from its mural of the 'Temptation of Mara', in
which nubile young females (vainly) attempt to distract the Buddha from the meditation
session that led to his enlightenment. The undressed nature of the females shocked
French epigraphist Charles Duroiselle, who wrote in 1916 that they were 'so vulgarly
erotic and revolting that they can neither be reproduced or described'.
Times change: the topless women can be seen, without blushing, on the back left wall.
Just behind the temple is the
Kyat Kan Kyaung
, a working underground monastery
dating from the 11th century. Mats on the tunnel floors are used for meditation.
