Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
see some intact stucco reliefs and paintings, suggesting the work had been completed.
The mystery goes on.
Three out of the four buddha sanctums were also filled with bricks. The remaining
western shrine features two original side-by-side images of Gautama and Maitreya, the
historical and future buddhas (it's the only Bagan site with two side-by-side buddhas).
The temple's bad karma may be the reason it remains one of the few temples not to
have undergone major restoration. Perhaps in time, one of the great architectural myster-
ies of Bagan will be solved.
Sulamani Pahto
BUDDHIST TEMPLE
This temple with five doorways is known as the Crowning Jewel and was constructed
around 1181 by Narapatisithu. It is one of Bagan's most attractive temples, with lush
grounds (and ample vendors) behind the surrounding walls. It's a prime example of later,
more sophisticated temple styles, with better internal lighting. Combining the early peri-
od's horizontal planes with the vertical lines of the middle period, the receding terraces
create a pyramid effect. The stairways to the top are closed.
The brickwork throughout is considered some of the best in Bagan. The gilded
sikhara
is a reconstruction; the original was destroyed in the 1975 earthquake. The interior face
of the wall was once lined with 100 monastic cells, a feature unique among Bagan's an-
cient monasteries.
There's much to see inside. Carved stucco on mouldings, pediments and pilasters rep-
resent some of Bagan's finest ornamental work and is in fairly good condition. Glazed
plaques around the base and terraces are also still visible, as are many big and small mur-
als.
Buddha images face the four directions from the ground floor; the image at the main
eastern entrance sits in a recess built into the wall. The interior passage around the base
is painted with quite big frescoes from the Konbaung period, and there are traces of earli-
er frescoes.
Thabeik Hmauk
BUDDHIST TEMPLE
Facing Sulamani from the east, and well worth visiting, this
sikhara
-topped temple
looks like a miniature version of its more famous neighbour, but sees far fewer visitors
(or vendors). Thabeik Hmauk means 'Boycott Temple', as it was made in response to the
similarly designed Sulamani, which was ordered by the brutal king Narapatisithu. Much
of its interior was damaged by the 1975 earthquake, but there are multiple stairways up
to a wrap-around meditation chamber with little light.
