Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
'And the idea originally proposed by the 20th-century historian G H Luce, that
the early, dark temples represent the brooding nature of the captive Mon, while the
later high, airy temples show the outgoing nature of the Burmans, has an explana-
tion that relies on architecture, not on imagined ethnic traits: the engineers of
Bagan simply got better over time at using the arch, which they had adopted from
India, and thus could build more spacious interiors.
'Doubt has also been cast on the tale of a Buddhist king of Bagan irreligiously
tearing down temples to build fortifications against the advancing Mongols. This is
more likely a “cautionary tale” about the kinds of things that kings should never,
never do. And while there was certainly a Mongol invasion of the northern borders
of the kingdom in the late 13th century, there is no real evidence that they attacked
the capital. There is indeed a painting of a Mongol archer on a pagoda wall at
Bagan, but he is cheerfully shooting at a duck, while his senior officer lounges un-
der a tree.
'The provincial lords in the north, who actually did fight off the Mongols, were so
successful that, as the economy of Bagan deteriorated under the burden of temple
construction, a new series of capitals slowly grew up around Mandalay and Ava.
Bagan was not so much destroyed as relegated to the second division.
'Some of these interpretations remain contentious. You might find the discus-
sions on some of the Burma/Mon history websites highly entertaining, especially if
you thought academics are all full of reasoned arguments and civilised discourse!'
TOP OF CHAPTER
Central Plain
Extending from the edge of Old Bagan, this vast and lovely plain (roughly south of An-
awrahta Rd between New Bagan and Nyaung U) is home to a few must-sees everyone
gets to (Shwesandaw Paya and Dhammayangyi Pahto) and many pockets of temples that
few ever see. It's a great area to follow your own whims, as you'll find goatherds and a
bit of village life out here, but there is nothing in the way of restaurants or lunch options.
Some temples are locked but a 'keyholder' should be in the area.
This list of well-worthy sites runs west to east (towards the clearly visible Bagan
Tower construction site, near Nyaung U).
Shwesandaw Paya
BUDDHIST TEMPLE
Bagan's most famous sunset-viewing spot, the Shwesandaw is a graceful white pyramid-
style pagoda with steps leading past five terraces to the circular stupa top, with good
