Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
perfectly proportioned temple heralds the stylistic end of the early Bagan period and the
beginning of the middle period.
The central square measures 174ft (53m) along each side. Upper floors are closed to
visitors. The entranceways make the structure a perfect Greek cross; each entrance is
crowned with a stupa finial. The base and the terraces are decorated with 554 glazed tiles
showing Jataka scenes, thought to be derived from Mon texts. Look back as you enter to
see the huge carved teak doors that separate interior halls from cross passages on all four
sides.
Facing outward from the centre of the cube are four 31ft (9m) standing buddha statues.
Only the Bagan-style images facing north and south are original; both display the
dham-
machakka mudra
(a hand position symbolising the Buddha teaching his first sermon).
The other two images are replacements for figures destroyed by fire in the 1600s.
All four have bodies of solid teak, though guides may claim the southern image is
made of a bronze alloy. Guides like to point out that if you stand by the donation box in
front of the original southern buddha, his face looks sad, while from a distance he tends
to look mirthful.
The western and eastern standing buddha images are done in the later Konbaung, or
Mandalay, style. If looked at from the right angle, the two lions at the eastern side re-
semble an ogre. A small, nut-like sphere held between the thumb and middle finger of
the east-facing image is said to resemble a herbal pill, and may represent the Buddha of-
fering
dhamma
(Buddhist teachings) as a cure for suffering. Both arms hang at the im-
age's sides with hands outstretched, a
mudra
(hand position) unknown to traditional
Buddhist sculpture outside this temple.
The west-facing Buddha features the
abhaya mudra
(the hands outstretched, in the
gesture of no fear). At its feet sit two life-sized lacquer statues, said to represent King
Kyanzittha and Shin Arahan, the Mon monk who initiated Anawrahta into Theravada
Buddhism. Inside the western portico are two symbols on pedestals of the Buddha's foot-
prints. Don't leave without taking a brief walk around the outside of the temple, where
you can see many glazed tiles and lovely views of the spires and terraced roofs (often
away from vendor hassle too).
In 1990, on its 900th anniversary, the temple spires were gilded. The remainder of the
temple exterior is whitewashed from time to time.
It can feel more like a souvenir stand than a temple given the proliferation of peddlers
outside selling books, postcards and oil paintings, but that shouldn't dissuade you from
visiting. It's roughly 1600 ft (500m) east of Thatbyinnyu and the same distance north of
Shwesandaw, and just over half a mile (1km) northwest of Dhammayangyi Pahto.
