Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
local transport, it is wiser to visit on a return excursion from Monywa, costing around
K8000/12,000 by motorbike/three-wheeler and taking around three hours.
THANBODDHAY PAYA
The central feature of this carnivalesque complex (Thanboddhay Paya; admission $3) is a
large mid-20th-century temple whose unique roof is layered with rows of gilt mini-stu-
pas. Its flanks burst gaudily bright colours and are offset by 30ft-high (9m) concrete ob-
elisks set with uncountable buddha shapes. The multi-arched temple interior (admission
$3; 6am-5pm) is plastered with so many buddha images (5,823,631 according to
temple guardians), large and small, that it feels like you're walking through a buddha
house of mirrors. While there is an official entry charge, nobody was collecting money
during our visit. Thanboddhay's kitschfest continues in the surrounding pastel-hued
monks' quarters and with two huge white concrete elephants at the site's gateway. It's 1
mile (1.5km) off the Mandalay road, 6 miles (10km) from Monywa.
BODHI TATAUNG
Another 5m miles (8km) east from Thanboddhay, the name of this vast hillside buddha-
rama translates as '1000 buddhas'. However, for most visitors, only two of them really
count. Opened in 2008, the glimmering 424ft (130m) standing buddha is claimed to be
the world's tallest, and it utterly dominates the landscape for miles around. Inside the
multistorey torso, seemingly interminable stairways link painted galleries; many lower
ones depicting gruesome scenes from hell that are not really suitable for young children.
You might hope that climbing to buddha's head would take you, artistically at least, to
Nirvana. However, so far at least, visitors' progress is blocked at the 16th floor, barely
halfway up. A spiritual message? The interior closes at 5pm.
Lower down the hillside lounges a slightly smaller but still large 312ft (95m) reclining
buddha . It's hardly refined and the dark interior contains poorly maintained tableaux:
enter through the left buttock, as you do.
Note that both giant buddhas face west, so for the best light plan a visit in the late af-
ternoon.
If you're feeling inspired, the Bodhi Tataung site hosts many other minor fascinations,
including a whole garden of identical sitting buddhas under concrete parasols, and the
gilded 430ft (130m) stupa Aung Setkya Paya , which has lovely views from its upper
rim, reached via an inner passageway.
Carry your sandals to save your feet from the gravel on connecting roads.
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