Bagan & Central Myanmar - Myanmar (Burma) - page 279

There are several other minor festivals, including ones held on the full moons of
Wagaung (July/August) and Tagu (March/April), which celebrate the departure and re-
turn of the famous Taungbyone nat (Min Gyi and Min Lay). Once a year, the Taungby-
one nat are believed to travel a spirit circuit that includes Mt Popa, Taungbyone (about
14 miles north of Mandalay) and China.
Sleeping
Most visitors find a couple of hours with Mt Popa's maddening macaques enough. There
are some very basic and overpriced guesthouses in Popa village, but the range of budget
accommodation on offer in Bagan is far better. There's also the lovely, lonely Popa
Mountain Resort ( 061-69169; [e-mail] ; r superior from $99, deluxe
from $130; ) , owned by tycoon Tay Za, a businessman with close links to the gen-
erals. Set at 2600ft (798m) the striking all-wood bungalows boast a dramatic mountain-
side setting. Nonguests can take a dip in the infinity pool ($7) with spectacular views of
Popa Taung Kalat or have a meal at the good restaurant, which overlooks the shimmering
spires of Mt Popa's temples.
Getting There & Away
Most travellers visit Mt Popa in half a day by share taxi or by organised tour from their
hotel. In Nyaung U, guesthouses can usually arrange a space in a share taxi (without
guide); a whole taxi is about K35,000 to K45,000 depending on the quality of the
vehicle.
There is also a pick-up truck departing Nyaung U's bus station at 8.30am for Mt Popa
(K3000, two hours); on the return leg, it departs Popa for Nyaung U at 1pm. Less con-
veniently, it is possible to take an hourly pick-up from Nyaung U to Kyaukpadaung (90
minutes) and then another to Mt Popa (45 minutes), but this takes the best part of a day.
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Salay
063
This Bagan-era village, 22 miles south of Bagan, is rooted in the 12th and 13th centuries,
when Bagan's influence spread. It remains an active religious centre, with something like
50 monasteries shared among the fewer than 10,000 residents. Day-trippers make it here
to visit a few of the 19th-century wooden monasteries and some select Bagan-era shrines,
and peek at a handful of untouched British colonial buildings.