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you'll walk through a quiet village then begin the steep but relatively short ascent
to the top. The views of the river, the surrounding rice fields and limestone cliffs
(including Mt Zwegabin) are astounding.
Sleeping
Accommodation options are fairly limited in Hpa-an and, unless you have your own
transport, you're relegated to the cheaper places in town that inspire little to write home
about.
Soe Brothers Guesthouse BACKPACKER HOTEL $
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( 058-21372, 09 497 71823; soebrothers 05821372@gmail.com ; 2/146 Thitsar St; r $6-25; ) A
classic backpackers' crash pad, the rooms here are correspondingly basic, but the family
that runs the place is lovely and highly tuned in to travellers' needs. The vast majority of
rooms are small, fan-cooled and share basic but clean communal bathrooms; the three
'luxury' rooms have a bit more space, air-con and no queues for the toilet. There are lots
of welcoming communal areas to relax or chat, and hassle-free excursions, boat hire and
bus tickets can be arranged here.
Parami Motel HOTEL $
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( 058-21647; cnr Ohn Taw & Paya Sts; incl breakfast s $33-38, d 35-40; ) Large and com-
fortable - if not entirely new-feeling - rooms that come with satellite TV and hot-water
bathrooms make this a distinctly midrange-feeling budget stop.
Tiger Hotel HOTEL $
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( 058-21392; cnr Myint Lay & Thida Sts; r $15-30; ) Located near the river is this four-
storey hotel with large and clean but rather musty rooms. There's no sign here - look for
the imposing white building in need of a paint job.
Hotel Zwegabin HOTEL $$$
( 058-22557; Hpa-an-Mawlamyine Rd; r incl breakfast $70-90; ) This hotel boasts a
park-like atmosphere at the foot of limestone karsts opposite Mt Zwegabin. The best
rooms are the vast duplex bungalows with balconies taking in the view; the still-spacious
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