Civil Engineering Reference
In-Depth Information
Crest
Wave length,
L
Z
X
SWL
H
d
Trough
Sea bed
Z
=−
d
FIGURE 2.6
Water particle displacement for deep and shallow water.
SWL
SWL
d
Sea bed
Sea bed
Shallow water
Deep water
FIGURE 2.7
Local fluid velocities and acceleration.
Acceleration
●
a
x
= ½ +
gpH
=
L cosh F
1
=
cosh F
2
sin F
3
(2.13)
a
z
= ½ −
gpH
=
L sinh F
1
=
cosh F
2
cos F
3
(2.14)
The theories concerning the modeling of ocean waves were developed in the nine-
teenth century. Practical wave force theories concerning actual offshore platforms
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