Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
At the entrance, there is a low modern building, a semicircle of tourist shops that helps
focus one's attention on a slender steel pole that's nine stories tall. It reminded me of the
Maypole, although I've never actually seen one.
Five Volantes begin with a ceremony at the base of the steel pole. They circle the pole in
a ritualistic dance led by a flute player. I was told that they are asking the gods for bless-
ings. Then they climb the pole that has a small, square frame at the very top. The square
reminded me of Ojo de Díos
(Eye of God), the colorful diamond squares ones sees in
Mexico.
The climb itself is rigorous and physically demanding. Four Volantes arrange themselves,
sitting on the rails of the open frame.
The fifth member of the Volantes, the last to climb, mounts the very apex of the pole where
he dances and plays a flute. His dance floor must be less than a foot square and there he
taps his feet in rhythm, oblivious apparently to the dizzying height.
The four Volantes represent the cardinal points, north, south, east and west. Seated on the
edge of the frame, the four, each and together, slowly turn the platform frame like a giant
clockwork and wind the yellow cord around the pole until all the slack is taken up.
Each Volante ties a cord to his waist and wraps it around an ankle. At a given moment, in
unison, all four fall backwards with arms extended. In falling, they spin like upside-down
whirling dervishes in ecstasy. Each circles the pole thirteen times as he glides to earth,
symbolically bringing the sun and the rain to the Mother Earth to nurture seeds that bring
life and fertility.
This is a rite that was once widespread before the arrival of the Spaniards. It is maintained
by the Tononacs and now brings in a shower of coins from the tourists.
The age range of the Volantes surprised me. While most are young men, some are novices
of thirteen years old while others could be grandfathers. I suspect that it's the grueling
climb up the pole that encourages retirement.
Before I left, I asked the Volantes if I could take a group photo. “¿Cómo no? (Of course),”
was the friendly answer.
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