Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
enough for tailgating at the Super Bowl. Major monuments are roped off. El Castillo is off
limits. With so many visitors, wear and tear and accidents had to be prevented.
Mayan merchants were arriving with their merchandise stacked high on their backs, look-
ing like old photos from a B. Traven novel of overburdened human cargo carriers. Their
loads extended above their heads, and the carriers used headbands for support and balance.
Vendors picked their place in the shade along the trails of Chichen Itza. Blankets and tarps
were laid out to define the boundaries of their store. Hammocks, masks, carved wood and
mosaic-stone jewelry, silver and beads of jade and amber were for sale.
Pottery, plates and sarapes, all in brilliant colors, were displayed. There was even a large
carved Mayan jaguar for sale. I admired a mask and was impressed by the quality. In fact,
most of the handcrafts were attractive, well made and crafted by artisans.
I asked a vendor, "Do you have to have a license to sell inside the park?"
He said, "No, it's a tradition and we have a right. But we are protesting."
"Protesting?" I asked.
"We object to the construction of the
palapas
(large thatched-roofed buildings). They are
stealing our business."
"How many merchants are there?" I asked.
"We are 500."
Amazing, I thought, 500 small businesses lining the footpaths of Chichen Itza and
threatened by store sales. It's the fear of the small town merchant when WalMart breaks
ground.
Having arrived early I was able to see Chichen Itza with few tourists. Because climbing
the monuments was now forbidden, the visit went quickly. I read the posted explanations,
took photos, and completed the circuit in two hours, just in time to catch the bus for Val-
ladolid.
When I went for a bus ticket, the clerk said, "The bus is just leaving, pay the driver." I
raced, running with three bundles, the small suitcase, the plastic bag and my shoulder bag.
The bus had just left the yellow zone. I shouted. The Oriente Bus security man put his
fingers in his mouth and whistled. His shrill whistle caught the driver's attention. I ran,
