Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
to bring rain for an abundant harvest. Ironically, after four centuries, Catholic worshipers
pray to Chac-Mool. Bishop Landa destroyed the physical but never fully converted the
Mayan heart.
In Mani, we lunched at Tutul-Xiu, a giant thatched roofed restaurant with open sides.
Shade and breeze are important in this hot, humid climate. I let Alberto order for me. "The
specialty of the house," he said. I was served an attractive plate of small, thinly sliced
pieces of pork with tomatoes and onions.
I ordered Montejo beer, named for the con-
quistador of Yucatan.
The huge stonewalled Franciscan mission dominated Mani. It was once a fortress, a
church, a self-sufficient community, and a seat of government. It has suffered numerous
violations, often stripped, and the interior was quite plain. It has been partially restored
and there were attractive
retablos
in the church. The open chapel, walled up for centuries,
has been reopened. In the garden, an ancient water mill was present, but a modern pump
was used to draw the water.
It was after 4 p.m., and it would be dark in an hour. Alberto drove me to Merida, dropped
me off on Calle 60, just off the central plaza, where I had my pick of a dozen hotels. I
chose the modest Hotel San Juan, $35 a night with pool and air-conditioning. But for $80
I could have stayed at Hotel Mission Merida in real luxury, with a superb pool.
Expenses: (Alberto and Lirio were my guests for meals, and as I was theirs for the day I
had no transportation costs.) Meals $56, fees $26, Hotel San Juan $35, Total: $117.
