Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Thirty years ago, Uxmal, Chichen Itza and Palenque were the featured archeological sites.
Now the Yucatan is peppered with "new" sites and Edzna, which I had never heard of, has
a sound and light program on Friday nights. Haciendas have been restored and converted
into luxury hotels, and colonial churches are being refurbished. The old is rapidly becom-
ing the new.
In 1975 my family and I stayed at El Señorial Hotel, originally the Carvajal family man-
sion. Now it is government owned. Our spacious bedrooms have been subdivided into of-
fices. But the arabesque arches, curling stairway with wrought iron banisters and patio, are
present and cared for.
I recalled a hostile reception in Yucatan thirty-five years ago when a woman gratuitously
mocked me on the street as a tourist. She said, "Usted es un tonto (You're stupid)." My
reply was, "Porqué? (Why?),” and her swift rebuttal was, "Porqué es (Because you are)."
But now, friendliness defined this trip.
In 1975 on the weekend, it was near impossible to exchange $50 in Campeche. Of course
there were no ATMs, and there was little acceptance of credit cards. My family had walked
the beach, not a paved
malecón
with bike and jogging trails, and decorative monumental
art. What hasn't changed? Humidity.
I arrived on December 12, the Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe, and paid my respects.
Flowers and candles overwhelmed the Virgin's altar. But my arrival was also in the midst
of the topic fair and the International Music Festival. There were multiple events to choose
from: poets and ballet, romance singers, painters, a pianist, outdoor theater and indoor
drama. Spain was the featured honored guest.
I checked in at Hotel Lopez and became the first guest in a newly renovated room with a
newly tiled floor, fresh paint, new bath, tile and fixtures. I'd forgotten how nice it is to slip
between brand new crisp sheets. All the room lacked was pictures on the wall.
The next day I planned to go to the theater. Because Spain was being honored, Federico
García Lorca's play
La Casa de la Senora Alba
was the signature production.
Expenses: Taxi $5, bus $20, meals $19, Hotel Lopez $38. Total: $82.
