Campeche: The New Is Old
Days are hot and humid. But the mornings are cool. While getting dressed, I debated wheth-
er to wear both a t-shirt and a long-sleeved shirt on the bus. I arrived at the bus station a
little late, but just in time to grab one of the last three seats on the 7 a.m. ADO bus for
Campeche, a six-hour ride. Great luck, there was a window seat. I snagged it then dozed
nearly the whole way, missing the scenery.
Once aboard the bus, the driver revved the engine, turned on the air-conditioning, and I had
to get my sweater out of my luggage. And for added irony the movie on the bus was the
March of the Penguins .
Campeche is not the dreary port town I visited thirty-five years ago when the ocean frontage
was merely beachside rubble, and grey was the dominant city color. Mexico has discovered
its architectural heritage and the beauty of illumination. Restoration is an industry: ar-