Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
but "El camino es muy feo,” (That's an ugly road). I went to bed puzzled with the words
“ugly road” describing a new toll road on my mind.
I caught the bus for Tuxtla Gutierrez in the dark at 5 a.m. and found that “ugly,” was the
right adjective. The new toll road was already worn out, pockmarked. Heavy oil-service
trucks had beaten the highway into a potholed obstacle course.
Juan Carlos, the bus driver, enjoyed the challenge, swerving the bus like a kid playing with
a Game Boy and earning points for every missed pothole. Still, time and distance were
saved versus the old route. The bus climbed into mountains, and we looked out over lakes
and rivers. We crossed Grijalva River. It was cold so I took my sweater from my bag.
Profuse vegetation with broad-leafed plants and vines vied with one another for growing
space.
The bus descended into the Chiapas Valley. Blue skies, puffy white clouds and warm
weather returned.
From the terminal I hailed a cab and said, "I want to go the center." I asked for an eco-
nomical hotel that the driver might suggest.
"Hotel del Carmen," he said.
It was the best taxi recommendation I'd had in years. Hotel del Carmen greeted me with
friendly employees and tasteful décor. It was located two blocks from the park where
marimba music played nightly. In the hotel lobby, red poinsettias and a green Christmas
tree cheered guests.
Single rooms were listed twice. Like Coca-Cola, Hotel del Carmen offered Single Classic
at $28 and Single Premium for $38.
"What's the difference?" I asked.
Mary, the hotel clerk said, "All the rooms are the same. Premium has air-conditioning." I
didn't think that heat would be a great inconvenience in December. I took the Single Clas-
sic.
None of the rooms had hot water for simply washing, but all showers had hot water. I
marveled with curiosity why such an attractive hotel lacked a hot water connection to the
bathroom sink.
