Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
hour. So far my belief that there's a convenient bus to everywhere in Mexico from every-
where in Mexico was proving to be true.
I caught the Interestales bus for Sonoyta.
The long day's ride was filled with desert views and TV videos. As we entered Sonoyta,
there was a statue of President Plutarco Calles in the traffic circle where two highways
met. He founded the PRI political party that governed Mexico from 1929 to 2000, until
PAN's Vicente Fox broke PRI's grip and was elected president of Mexico.
General Calles defeated Pancho Villa at the battle of Agua Prieta. He was president of
Mexico from 1924 to 1928 and was Mexico's strong man until his handpicked successor,
Lazaro Cardenas, became president and put his own people in power.
Perhaps Calles was born or raised here. Sonoyta was not really a city. It was a linear town
stretched along two intersecting highways and offered nothing attractive except for the
monumental house on a hill that overlooked and overshadowed Calles' statue. The house
would stand out in any setting. I asked a fellow at a taco stand, “Who owns the house that
looks like a hotel on the mountain?”
He said, “That's Salcido.”
“How did he get so rich?” I asked.
“Pemex, money exchange and auto parts distribution and trucking.”
I had vegetable soup and a beer for lunch at The Steakhouse. Still curious, I asked the
cashier about the Salcido Family. Mario Salcido was mayor of Sonoyta from 1994-1997.
He built a business empire, and when he died his son inherited the family's wealth.
In an hour I had seen Sonoyta. I walked back to Bus Central. It was another three hours
to Santa Ana, where I would spend the night at the Hotel Posada for $25, which included
working air conditioning.
During the day, the bus followed the Ruta de las Misiones, established by Father Kino,
past Caborca and Altar. Along the main street in Altar, backpacks hung from every stall
and storefront like bunches of grapes ready to harvest. Altar was the staging area for young
men going north. From here, it was a desert trek, and there was a history of tragedy.
