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The evening was a blur. I was dazed with names. Everyone seemed to have a title and three
names, like "Presidente Municipal Raul Hernandez Quintero."
Although this was the Apple Harvest Festival, an eight-day celebration, Zacatlán's twenty-
five indigenous communities took an active role in performances, cuisine and handcrafts.
Poems were recited in both Nahuatl and Spanish. Kwaxochitl dominated Sunday. From
noon to 10:30 p.m. members from nine different indigenous communities performed on
stage in the plaza. Dances, bands, recitations, a short enactment of a courting ritual and the
presentation of Celsa "Doncella Kwaxochitl" (Celsa is the Queen of Flowers) represented
the indigenous community.
Looking over the program, I realized this was a more sophisticated and a much larger
event and celebration than I had imagined. There was a rodeo and a bullfight, many bands,
singing groups, and TV stars who would perform. There were public dances, fireworks, en-
tertainers, two fashion shows, two religious processions in honor of the Virgen de la Asun-
cion, and more.
Mary Carmen said, "El Camión Verde (the Green Bus) will pick us up at 7:30 a.m." We
were going to Puebla with the indigenous dance group from Xonotla, who would perform
"Tetlalpalotl, danza de peticion de mano (courtship dance, asking for the girl's hand)." She
assured me that we would return in time for the fair's opening. Bernardo was expected at 6
p.m.
Back at the hotel, I wasn't even unpacked, and I set my alarm for 6:30 a.m.
I arrived in front of the Tourist Office at 7:25 a.m. Dancers were waiting. The Green Bus
arrived at 7:54. Forty dancers and two guests boarded. Some of the dancers were on Mex-
ican time. There was shuffling on and off the bus. We left at 8:30 a.m.
The driver immediately took the wrong route; we were headed for Mexico City. "Puebla,
Puebla, Puebla!" the dancers shouted. The Green Bus took a 360-degree tour of Zacatlán
through narrow streets and tight corners, hampered by one-way streets.
During the two-hour drive to Puebla we were followed by a pickup truck, which carried
the dancers' props, rustic wood siding for a house and thatching for a roof, two guacalotes
(turkeys) and a borrego (sheep). Apparently, the courtship would involve a trade.
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