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“Immigration,” she said. I was back at the border.
“Strange,” I thought, “even when I get there, I don't know where I am.”
Two blocks east I found Chapultepec Park. It was filled with tents displaying crafts and
brightly painted alejibres, phantasmagorical figures from Oaxaca, which were on exhibit
and for sale. I meandered around the old section and found Chinese restaurants on every
block. The Chinese were among the first residents of Mexicali, which was founded in
1903. They came as farmers and more than proverbial ditch diggers; they built canals that
redirected the Colorado River. The next generation went into businees, became shop own-
ers and professionals. I passed by a pagoda with a plaque stating that Nanking and Mexic-
ali were “sister cities.”
The cathedral, which was situated mid block, was the plainest Catholic Church I'd seen
in a long while. It was dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe. With walls as barren as an
underground garage, it seemed Protestant. Stained glass windows depicting disciples and
saints broke the severity.
By 11 p.m. I was ready for bed, but neighbors in the adjacent room were lively. Their con-
versation, piped in through the ventilation duct, added to the hot air. I read for a half an
hour, then put a pillow over my head and slept.
I had no real complaints. The room was adequate, not overly expensive at $45 and taste-
fully decorated. The shower was a power tool, like a finger massage. All the plumbing at
Hotel del Norte was without water restrictors and delivered firehose pressure.
Expenses: Tourist Visa $21, hotel $45, bus $20, taxis $15, meal $7. Total: $108.
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