Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
'Þetta reddast' & the National Psyche
Icelanders have a reputation as tough, hardy, elemental types, and rural communities are
still deeply involved in the fishing and/or farming industries. Geographically speaking,
'rural' could be said to define most of the country outside the capital region - and it's home
to only 36% of Iceland's total population.
Naturally enough for people living on a remote island in a harsh environment,
Icelanders are self-reliant individualists who don't like being told what to do. The current
whaling debate is a prime example. Although most Icelanders wouldn't dream of eating
whale meat, a majority are in support of hunting - a silent sticking-up of two fingers at the
disapproving outside world.
But these steadfast exteriors often hide a more dreamy interior world. Iceland has al-
ways had a rich cultural heritage and an incredibly high literacy rate, and its people have a
passion for all things artistic. This enthusiasm is true of the whole country, but it's particu-
larly noticeable in downtown Reykjavík, where seemingly everyone plays in a band,
dabbles in art or design, makes films or writes poetry or prose - they're positively bursting
with creative impulses.
This buoyant, have-a-go attitude was hit hard during the financial meltdown. Soup kit-
chens sprang up in the city and thousands of younger people left Iceland to try their luck in
Norway. But Icelanders have resilience built into their DNA. In just a few short years,
emigration rates fell, and confidence started springing up around the country, mushroom-
ing along with new businesses catering to the tourist boom. The country has regained its
belief in the old saying ' Þetta reddast' (roughly translated, 'it will all work out okay'). The
phrase is so frequently used it has been described as the country's motto.
Although their pride may have taken a temporary kicking, Icelanders are calmly, right-
fully patriotic. Icelandair wishes a heartfelt 'Welcome home!' to its Icelandic passengers
when the plane touches down at Keflavík. Citizens who achieve international success are
quietly feted: celebrities such as Björk and Sigur Rós reflect prestige onto their entire
homeland.
Town layouts, the former US military base, and the prevalence of hot dogs and Coca-
Cola point to a heavy US influence, but Icelanders consider their relationship with the rest
of Scandinavia to be more important. Although they seem to conform to the cool-and-quiet
Nordic stereotype, Icelanders are curious about visitors and eager to know what outsiders
think of them: 'How do you like Iceland?' is invariably an early question. And an incred-
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