Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Getting There & Away
THE BADLANDS
Historically in Iceland, once a person had been convicted of outlawry they were beyond
society's protection and aggrieved enemies could kill them at will. Many útilegumenn
(outlaws), such as the renowned Eiríkur Rauðe (Erik the Red), voluntarily took exile
abroad. Others escaped revenge-killing by fleeing into the mountains, valleys and broad
expanses of the harsh Icelandic interior, where few dared pursue them.
Undoubtedly, anyone who could live year-round in these bitter, barren deserts must
have been extraordinary. Icelandic outlaws were naturally credited with all sorts of fear-
some feats, and the general populace came to fear the vast badlands, which they con-
sidered to be the haunt of superhuman evil. The útilegumennthereby joined the ranks of
giants and trolls, and provided the themes for popular tales such as the fantastic Grettir's
Saga.
One particular outlaw has become the subject of countless Icelandic folk tales. Fjalla-
Eyvindur ('Eyvindur of the Mountains'), a charming but incurable 18th-century klepto-
maniac, fled into the highlands with his wife, and continued to make enemies by rustling
sheep to stay alive. Throughout the highlands you'll see shelters and hideouts attributed
to him and hear tales of his ability to survive in impossible conditions while always staying
one jump ahead of his pursuers.
BICYCLE
Of all the interior routes, Kjölur is probably the best for cycling. For a humorous account,
read Tim Moore's
Frost on My Moustache
.
BUS
In summer, scheduled buses travel along the Kjölur route between Reykjavík and Akureyri
(in both directions). These services are included in a number of bus passports.
Bus 610 Reykjavík-Akureyri, 610a Akureyri-Reykjavík (one daily mid-June to early
September). SBA's service takes 10½ hours for the complete journey, with half-hour stops
at Geysir and Gullfoss. There's a 15-minute stop at Kerlingarfjöll, and an hour at Hverav-
ellir (time for a dip). The entire journey costs Ikr15,000.
