Southeast Iceland - Iceland - page 637

In the early summer of 1783, a vast set of fissures opened, forming around 135 craters;
the Lakagígar (Laki craters) took it in turns to fountain molten rock up to 1km into the air.
These Skaftáreldar (River Skaftá Fires) lasted for eight months, spewing out an estimated
volume of volcanic material over 15 cu km, with a resulting lava field (known as
Eldhraun) covering an area of 565 sq km. Twenty farms in the area were wiped out by
lava; another 30 were so badly damaged they had to be temporarily abandoned.
Far more devastating were the hundreds of millions of tonnes of ash and sulphuric acid
that poured from the fissures. The sun was blotted out, the grass died off, and around two-
thirds of Iceland's livestock died from starvation and poisoning. Some 9000 people - a
fifth of the country - were killed and the remainder faced the Moðuharðindin ('the Hard-
ship of the Mist'), a famine that followed.
The damage wasn't limited to Iceland, either. Across the northern hemisphere, clouds of
ash blocked out the sun. Temperatures dropped and acid rain fell, causing devastating crop
failures in Japan, Alaska and Europe (possibly even helping to spark the French Revolu-
tion). Nowadays the lava field belies the apocalypse that spawned it some 230 years ago.
Its black, twisted lava formations are overgrown with soft green moss.
The Lakagígar area is contained within the boundaries of Vatnajökull National Park
( www.vjp.is ) . Check the park website for excellent information for travellers.
In peak season (mid-July to mid-August), rangers are available at the Laki car parks
from 11am to 3pm, and lead walks at midday Monday to Friday. An interpretive trail has
been established over a gentle 500m walk - pick up the accompanying brochure (or down-
load it) for insight into the fascinating history, geology and ecology of the area. Please
stick to the marked paths in this ecologically sensitive region.
Camping is forbidden within the Laki reserve. The nearest campsite, with primitive hut
facilities, a toilet and fresh water, is at Blágil, about 11km from Laki. Beds/campsites were
Ikr4100/1400 per person at the time of writing; contact [e-mail].
Sights
Laki MOUNTAIN
Although the peak called Laki (818m) did not erupt, it has loaned its name to the 25km-
long Lakagígar crater row, which stretches northeastward and southwestward from its
base. Laki can be climbed in about 40 minutes from the parking area. From the top there